This travel article by Kenneth Bagnell appeared in The Hamilton Spectator.
“One’s destination,” said the 20th century’s most controversial novelist, Henry Miller — who was also a great traveller — “is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”
He might well have been thinking of a jewelled old city I’ve returned to so many times I’ve lost track of the number: San Juan, or more accurately, the historic walled Old San Juan of Puerto Rico. It’s existed a very long time — since the 1490s when Christopher Columbus first spied it from sea and claimed it for Spain. It was Spain’s for over four centuries.
The old streets and timeless cliffs still speak of the Old World, a chapter no thoughtful person ever wants to discard. You’ll sense why in Old San Juan’s encircling high grey wall, about three miles long, and the massive stones of…
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